Chateau de Couches

The Poelaert family bought the iconic chateau in Burgundy and restored its colorful glazed roof tiles after a meticulous research.
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Julie Poelaert, Manager of Chateau de Couches
Julie Poelaert, Global Manager of Chateau de Couches and daughter of the owners Olivier and Patricia Poelaert
I sat down with Julie Poelaert, who runs Chateau de Couches in Burgundy—a stunning estate her parents purchased in 2009. Blending authentic medieval fortress structures with Gothic Revival architecture, this magnificent French castle once housed the chamberlain to the mighty Dukes of Burgundy. One of the family's most challenging undertakings in heritage preservation has been the large-scale restoration of the castle's iconic, colorful glazed roof tiles. We discussed the tough decisions every historic property owner must face to preserve chateaux for generations to come. Julie shared the fascinating story of how they identified the tiles' original colors using nothing but old black-and-white photographs. She also debunked the famous legend surrounding Marguerite of Burgundy (wife of French King Louis X), refuting claims that she escaped Chateau Gaillard to live out her final days at Couches as completely untrue. Finally, Julie extends a warm invitation to everyone looking to experience true estate life and visit a Burgundy castle—whether by staying in one of the castle's beautifully restored boutique guest suites or joining Burgundy wine tasting, as the surrounding Côtes du Couchois vineyard is said to be one of the oldest in Burgundy.
The building of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France

RESTORATION JOURNEY OF CHATEAU DE COUCHES

Castles and Palaces (CnP): Your parents, Olivier and Patricia, bought the chateau in 2009, what made them decide to take on such an adventure in the first place?

Julie Poelaert (JP): Indeed, the chateau was taken over by the Poelaert family in 2009 and is now run as a family business. It was the desire to restore France’s heritage that inspired my parents—the desire to look after a place steeped in history.
A green lawn in front of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: Why Chateau de Couches specifically? Did your parents look at other castles before choosing this one?

JP: No, this was the only castle we visited. It was ideally situated, close to the train station and the motorway, and it had a rich history. Once it was located on the border between the Kingdom of France and the mighty Duchy of Burgundy and even served as the residence of Claude de Montaigu, a distinguished figure who was chamberlain to the Dukes of Burgundy.
Flowers in the garden of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: What was condition of the chateau at the time? Was it actually habitable?

JP: Well, the castle was overall in a good condition. A section of the rampart that had collapsed had to be repaired, plus the roof frames and roofing itself needed to be renovated. Overall, the chateau was habitable as it stood.
A view of medieval tower of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: Looking at the pre-restoration photographs, some areas, especially the roofs, seemed intact but fragile. Parts looked slightly sagging, and the old glazed tiles had lost much of their shine. What were the biggest structural or architectural challenges you faced?

JP: Roof and roof structure renovations are indeed our major projects, and we are delighted to have restored them to their former glory. The main architectural challenge about them was to make sure we stayed accurate to what they used to look like. And it was not only roofing that was our focus. The biggest structural challenge we faced was actually to prevent the ramparts from falling from the hill. This was one of the biggest projects ever undertaken at the chateau. Just imagine - we had to drill through the hill using huge piles in order to secure it to the ramparts.
Restoration of roof frames at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: How did you approach the question of authenticity during the restoration of the chateau’s 15th-century timber framework and its remarkable glazed-tile roofs?

JP: The restoration process was lengthy and meticulous, and required a great deal of research. The chapel, which dates from 1461, is a remarkable historic building. It was therefore decided to prioritize the maximum possible preservation of the original timber during the renovation of the roof structure. Only missing or damaged parts were replaced. As for the roof, in the absence of records specifying its previous condition, it was re-roofed with flat tiles.
Restoration of roofing at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
JP: The Chateau’s former stables and wine cellars also underwent roof restoration and a complete interior refurbishment. This work enabled the creation of a restaurant, a professional kitchen and guest rooms.
Restoration of roof frames at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
JP: Following these renovations, planning permission was granted in 2014 for the restoration of the roof and facades of the main building, which had been severely damaged by the elements. Built in the 19th century, this building was originally covered with plain glazed flat tiles. However, 19th- century photographs revealed the presence of diamond-shaped patterns. Although these photographs were in black and white, the original colors were successfully reconstructed.
Restored Burgundy glazed roof tiles of Chateau de Couches in France
JP: The roof was thus restored to reveal diamond-shaped patterns made from yellow glazed tiles, set against a background of mixed green, orange-yellow and dark brown tiles. As for the adjoining round tower, it features herringbone patterns, in keeping with the historical elements that have been uncovered.
Restored colourful glazed and terracotta roof tiles of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: These colorful tiled roofs are so striking. Are they typical for Burgundy?

JP: Glazed roof tiles were not invented in Burgundy, but they were introduced there in the 11th century, notably by the Abbey of Cîteaux, which developed Cistercian expertise in glazed terracotta. Their use gradually became widespread in the region and was reserved for prestigious religious and private buildings. Today, they are a strong symbol of the region’s identity. At the chateau, the roof was fully restored in 2019.
Medieval tower and stables of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
JP: The glazed‑tile roof, composed of 17 different shades, is a faithful reproduction of the one that crowned the chateau so majestically in the 19th century. Each tile reflects the artistry of traditional craftsmanship, adding visual richness and historical depth to the architectural ensemble.
An aerial view of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: The chateau radiates history as it is linked to many Burgundian families and mighty barons who had made it their place of residence. One thing I personally found fascinating: before the restoration, the roofs had moss, irregularities, and that soft “patina of centuries” that instantly conveyed age and history. After restoration, the chateau appears sharper, cleaner, ideal, almost reborn. Some would say it lost part of its visible ancient aura, while others would call it properly rescued. How do you feel about the final result today?

JP: We are very pleased to have been able to carry out the renovations to ensure the chateau’s long-term preservation. Leaving the roof and the framework in their previous condition would have led to their collapse.
JP: Remaining faithful to the history of the buildings and the site has always been a key priority. And our visitors have been extremely impressed with the results of the renovations.
An aerial view of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France

ARCHITECTURE AND HERITAGE PHILOSOPHY OF THE POELAERT FAMILY

CnP: Would you say your approach was closer to Viollet-le-Duc’s idea of restoration—restoring a monument to an idealized complete state—rather than John Ruskin’s philosophy of preserving age and decay?

JP: We carried out the renovations in keeping with the original architecture. Our philosophy is, above all, to preserve the chateau and not to allow it to fall into ruin through a lack of maintenance. Looking after a castle is an incredibly demanding task.
Traditional Gothic windows of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
JP: Especially at the start, as we had to carry out extensive historical research into its past, which was a lengthy process, and we also had to work with the historic monuments authorities to ensure it was renovated properly. Architect du patrimoine Olivier Chanu led the restoration. He made sure the works at the chateau were in line with the requirements applicable to listed buildings.
Wedding preparations at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: Do you live at the chateau today?
JP: Yes, we do—we live in the chateau, part of it is set aside for our own use.

CnP: From the very beginning, did you already have a clear vision of what the chateau should become?
JP: It was easy to picture what it would be like because the castle wasn’t in ruins. It simply needed care and attention—and we did give our chateau the care and attention it required.
Tower rooftop of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: Did you uncover any surprises during the works like hidden details, forgotten spaces, traces of earlier centuries?

JP: Whilst surveying the chapel in preparation for the renovations, we realized that there was a Romanesque church hidden ‘beneath’ the current 15th-century chapel.
Medieval 15-th century church at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: The chateau is an architectural patchwork of different centuries—with medieval, Renaissance, and later additions coexisting together. How do you personally perceive the chateau as a whole?

JP: The castle does indeed offer visitors the opportunity to explore different architectural periods. This makes it particularly interesting, and the differences in style from one building to another tell its story.
Old statue of Virgin Mary at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: The chateau still preserves remarkable medieval elements such as the keep, the Tower of Justice, the chapel. What can visitors discover inside these spaces today?

JP: The rooms in the castle are furnished, so visitors can explore each one, as well as the castle’s underground passages and low pit, for an even more immersive experience. Those underground passages are opened to the public, so our visitors can fully explore the foundations of the Chateau. There are no ghosts or old bones, at least, not that we know of.
Underground tunnels at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: The chateau is famously connected with Margaret of Burgundy, Queen of France and wife of Louis X. Officially, history says she died at Chateau Gaillard in 1315, but local legend claims she escaped and spent her final years here at Couches. What do you personally think of this story?

JP: It is, in fact, a myth, and research carried out by historians has disproved it.
Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: Let’s imagine I decide to spend a weekend at the chateau—what kinds of rooms or suites do you offer, and do you have a personal favorite?

JP: We offer three rooms and two can be booked together to form a suite. All the rooms have been designed by a close collaboration between us and an interior designer so we love them all. They combine historic charm with modern comfort. To achieve this, we have opted for Venetian décor, lion-footed baths, delicate floral motifs and we paid attention to every details. We wanted our rooms to exude timeless charm and elegance.
CnP: Your restaurant, Le Blason de Vair, also seems to play an important role in the chateau experience. The menu changes regularly. What is the most unusual or unexpected dish you’ve ever served there?

JP: Our restaurant focuses on local and seasonal produce. We aim to work with local producers. We do not serve ‘unusual’ dishes; instead, we offer French cuisine to showcase our beautiful region.
CnP: And the chateau is not only about history and gastronomy, but also wine. Is it true that your wine-producing tradition may be among the oldest in Burgundy?

The Côtes du Couchois vineyard is indeed said to be one of the oldest in Burgundy, and we are delighted to still be cultivating the chateau’s vines in particular. We produce Aligoté, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Wine tastings and cellar visits are there for our guests all year long upon reservation.
CnP: Looking back now—do you personally feel it was worth it, dedicating so much of your life to restoring and preserving this piece of medieval (and not only) history?

JP: Yes, we are very happy to be putting our heart and soul into this project, and we are delighted that visitors appreciate our ongoing efforts.
Interiors at Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
CnP: And finally, my traditional question to every castle owner I interview: many people dream of buying a ruined chateau and restoring it. What advice would you give them before they take the leap?

JP: Renovating a castle requires a full commitment and also involves substantial renovation budgets. It takes passion and determination to preserve a piece of our heritage, as this is the sort of project that demands an enormous amount of time and energy, but I dare say it’s worth it for generations to come will be able to visit and touch this piece of history.
A view of Chateau de Couches in Burgundy, France
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